Naturally Nihon

We were very comfortable on the futons in the ryokan last night, but breakfast was presented in a small window, 7am to 8am, and so everyone was roused to appreciate it. Artfully arranged, small ceramic bowls with tiny portions of shredded mushrooms, green beans, salmon, lotus fruit, aubergine with plum jam, sticky rice and a big bowl of broth (origins unclear), and a small portion of fruit. Tasty, but it required more brain-space than say, a bowl of cornflakes! Also much healthier, with none of that shortlived insulin spike delivered by processed wheat and sugar. Undoubtedly the best thing about our Japanese Inn is that it is on the premises of Zenkoji, a magnificent Buddhist temple. The grounds are all beautiful gravel and paved paths, artfully sculpted pine trees and hundreds of carved stone lanterns. Tranquility is the word. The temple itself is a vast and lofty cedarwood edifice erected in 1707 after (you guessed it) a fire, actually the last of eleven such ...

The afternoon's excitement was our first experience of Japan's 'bullet train'. Because we bought JR Passes to cover our 3 weeks here, all we has to do yesterday was reserve seats. So yesterday we tried to use one of the machines to do just that and I'm sorry to say that we gave up and went to the ticket office instead. Pathetic tourists!  By hook or by crook, here we are waiting to board our 16:24 to Nagano... ...moments later, the platform was heaving with peeps! Another local train to Zenkojishito got us to within striking distance of our 'ryokan', a traditional Japanese Inn. We have tatami mats and futons. We have to switch to inn-provided slippers at the door, but it's all lovely and the owner couldn't be more friendly. OK, I can't resist. Here's another pylon...